The Pen and the Land of the Ascending Dragon

The gentle sun caressed my face as I awoke on a mild February morning in 2014. “Just another day,” I mused, but the usual bustle of Saigon’s streets was eerily quiet. It was Tết, and I was about to embark on my first traditional holiday season in Ho Chi Minh City.

Fast forward to 2025, and once again, the mild morning sun of January will herald the Year of the Snake. While the quiet streets of Saigon have transformed, the culture and traditions of Tết remain a cornerstone of Vietnamese life.

With the completion of a zodiac cycle, I find myself back where I started, reflecting on the changes Ho Chi Minh City has undergone in the last 12 years and what the Year of the Snake signifies for expatriates in Vietnam.

Swiss tourists embrace the 2025 Vietnamese Tết Festival at the Youth Culture House, Ho Chi Minh City, January 13, 2024. Photo by Quang Dinh / Tuoi Tre

To be frank, my initial Tết experience in Vietnam was less than ideal. As a teacher, the extended holiday left me without an income for over two weeks. My aspirations to establish a solid foundation in Vietnam were abruptly halted by this ‘nonsensical tradition.’

However, I now realize that back in 2013, I was oblivious to the myriad wonders Tết had to offer.

Tết is a festival steeped in tradition, dating back hundreds, if not thousands, of years. It follows the lunar cycle, lending it a consistency rarely found in Western cultures.

At its core, Tết is about reconnecting with your roots—your home. In my early days in Vietnam, I was intrigued by the constant inquiry about my hometown. “Why is my hometown so significant?” I often wondered. In Vietnamese culture, your hometown serves as an anchor for your spirit. Regardless of your life trajectory, you are always welcomed back to your hometown with open arms during Tết.

The mass migration of people during Tết is a phenomenon unseen in the Western world. While we celebrate Christmas, Thanksgiving, and Easter, the sheer volume of movement during the Tết holiday surpasses them all.

Consequently, Tết is not an ideal time to be a tourist in Vietnam. Aside from the scarcity of transport tickets, operators work tirelessly to manage the influx, and the presence of foreigners can inadvertently add to their challenges.

These lessons, I believe, shaped my love and appreciation for the season and helped me craft a response to the question I am often asked. Now, with passion and pride, I declare, “My hometown is Saigon.”

Apricot blossoms, symbolic of Tết in southern Vietnam. Photo by Dong Nguyen / Tuoi Tre News

My 12 Tết Holidays in Saigon

Having spent 12 Tết holidays in Saigon, I’ve come to understand the significance of a hometown. Like a best friend, the city has evolved with me, and I feel a deep connection that is challenging to sever.

Aside from family obligations, my favorite Tết activity is to grab my camera and wander the city’s streets in the early morning, capturing the serene atmosphere unique to this time of year.

Spotting a solitary motorcycle on Lê Lợi Street or an elegant lady in an áo dài strolling to church helps me connect with Saigon. This connection can be elusive during the rest of the year, as the city’s relentless pace rarely affords a moment to truly immerse yourself in its spirit.

This aspect of Tết has remained constant. While the streets may have widened, become faster, or more modern, the peacefulness of a Tết morning has always welcomed me home and grounded my spirit.

In contrast, the development of areas like Nguyễn Huệ Street has infused the season with color, spectacle, and commercialism, creating a vibrant blend of tradition and modernity.

The pinnacle of this fusion is the annual display on Nguyễn Huệ Pedestrian Street, where thousands of vibrant flowers are shipped in from the countryside.

Here, modernity and tradition converge. Witnessing families dressed in traditional attire strolling through the flower-adorned street is simply breathtaking, as they navigate a sea of phones, cameras, and people vying for the perfect social media snapshot.

It is during this event that my usually patient and loving wife undergoes a transformation. Her unwavering support and unconditional love, which I cherish throughout the year, seem to vanish amidst the chaos of Nguyễn Huệ Street.

Combine Nguyễn Huệ Street, the flower display, áo dài, and a camera, and my once-quiet wife becomes a force of nature, driven by an impossible quest for the perfect photo.

As much as I adore Saigon and Tết, I’ve come to accept that it’s also the time of year when my wife and I are destined to disagree over photos and the challenges of capturing them in crowded locations.

During these moments, I remind myself that it’s all part of the Tết spirit. A million people strolling through Nguyễn Huệ at 7:00 pm is just as integral to Tết as that solitary motorbike on Lê Lợi Street at 7:00 am.

After all, taking photos, snapping selfies, and donning festive attire are all rituals that embody the spirit of the season.

Ray Kuschert and his wife, Vu Thi Loan, pose during their visit to Nguyen Hue Flower Street. Photo: Supplied

Giving as an Act of Love

In 2014, when I visited my then-girlfriend’s home in Gò Vấp, I spent hours in a small room, chatting, drinking wine, and sharing stories with many people. It was here that I learned the fundamentals of Tết.

Tết is rooted in traditions, stories, and practices like the Kitchen God, special foods, and the act of cleaning the home. One such tradition is lì xì, the giving of red envelopes containing money.

I was initially told that lì xì envelopes were meant for adults to give to children. However, over time, I’ve realized that these little envelopes carry far more significance. They represent respect, love, and appreciation, transcending the typical gift-giving for children.

In my experience, lì xì is for everyone. It’s a way to honorably share your successes with your family and support those who may have faced challenges. For parents, it’s a chance to reap the rewards of a father’s hard work. For children, it’s an opportunity to return home and share their achievements with their struggling parents. And for extended family and friends, it’s a discreet way to offer support to those who may be facing difficulties, infusing hope as the new year dawns.

This, in essence, is what Tết is all about: understanding, caring, and giving thanks to those we hold dear.

I used to resent having to give away so much money during Tết, but now I appreciate the balance it brings. Throughout the year, my wife and her family support me through thick and thin, and Tết offers me a chance to express my gratitude.

This year, I plan to give lì xì to the security guards at my workplace and residence, the office cleaners, and my favorite ticket seller in Bình Thạnh District, who always greets me with a smile and a friendly hello. These are the people I consider part of my extended family in my beloved hometown of Saigon.

When asked if Tết has changed over the past 12 years in Saigon, I sit on the fence. While there have been significant shifts in commercialism, technology, and spectacle, the underlying traditions remain steadfast, as solid as they were centuries ago.

If you’re new to Saigon or any part of Vietnam, I encourage you to embrace Tết as a time for exploration and discovery. Wander the empty streets and markets, and offer a friendly greeting to those who may be spending the holidays alone.

For a touch of adventure, hop on a motorbike and explore a new location, but plan ahead, as most places will be closed. Savor the moment and embrace the spirit of the season—it’s an experience that cannot be taught but must be lived.

The Year of the Snake beckons with promises of wisdom and good living. While this serpent may not bring good luck, it offers something far more valuable. Good living is about laying strong foundations and appreciating life’s simple pleasures, and wisdom guides us in making prudent choices for the future. All in all, I eagerly anticipate a fantastic year ahead.

So, as we bid farewell to the Year of the Dragon and welcome the Year of the Snake, my Tết will unfold much like the ones before. I’ll wander the quiet streets of my hometown, spend quality time with family, and cherish the anchor Vietnam has given me—a foundation for a life of contentment I once thought impossible.

With Tết, Saigon, Vietnam, my wife, and my family, I am loved, and I feel blessed.

*Chúc Mừng Năm Mới* to you, and may your new year be filled with joy and prosperity!

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