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The Pen and the Land of the Ascending Dragon

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The gentle sun caressed my face as I awoke on a mild February morning in 2014. “Just another day,” I mused, but the usual bustle of Saigon’s streets was eerily quiet. It was Tết, and I was about to embark on my first traditional holiday season in Ho Chi Minh City. Fast forward to 2025, and once again, the mild morning sun of January will herald the Year of the Snake. While the quiet streets of Saigon have transformed, the culture and traditions of Tết remain a cornerstone of Vietnamese life. With the completion of a zodiac cycle, I find myself back where I started, reflecting on the changes Ho Chi Minh City has undergone in the last 12 years and what the Year of the Snake signifies for expatriates in Vietnam. Swiss tourists embrace the 2025 Vietnamese Tết Festival at the Youth Culture House, Ho Chi Minh City, January 13, 2024. Photo by Quang Dinh / Tuoi Tre To be frank, my initial Tết experience in Vietnam was less than ideal. As a teacher, the extended holiday left me w...

The Ancient Art of Calligraphy: Thousands Flock to Van Mieu to Revive a Timeless Tradition

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On the third day of the Lunar New Year, known as the Year of the Snake (At Ty), Van Mieu – Quoc Tu Giam in Hanoi buzzed with excitement as crowds gathered to immerse themselves in the festive atmosphere and partake in a beloved tradition: calligraphy. A long queue of visitors eagerly waiting at Van Mieu-Quoc Tu Giam. Photo: Duy Minh/ Kinh te & Do thi Newspaper People from all over Vietnam, along with international tourists, converged at this historic site to seek blessings for a successful, prosperous, and wise year ahead. Many arrived early, eager to explore the ancient architecture and soak in the vibrant energy of Tet, the most significant holiday in Vietnamese culture. Beyond the festive atmosphere, visitors sought the expertise of calligraphers, asking for the word of the year to be inscribed as a symbol of good fortune and prosperity. A highlight of the day was the traditional calligraphy display, where skilled “ong do” (calligraphy masters) sh...